Kojic acid dipalmitate: a safe and effective whitening and freckle remover

You may know a little about kojic acid, but kojic acid also has other family members, such as kojic dipalmitate. Kojic acid dipalmitate is the most popular kojic acid whitening agent in the market at present. Before we know kojic acid dipalmitate, let’s first learn about its predecessor – “kojic acid”.
Kojic Acid is produced by fermentation and purification of glucose or sucrose under the action of kojise. Its whitening mechanism is to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, inhibit the activity of N-hydroxyindole acid (DHICA) oxidase, and block the polymerization of dihydroxyindole (DHI). It is a rare single whitening agent that can inhibit multiple enzymes at the same time.

But kojic acid has light, heat and metal ion instability, and is not easy to be absorbed by the skin, so kojic acid derivatives came into being. Researchers have developed many kojic acid derivatives to improve the performance of kojic acid. Kojic acid derivatives not only have the same whitening mechanism as kojic acid, but also have better performance than kojic acid.
After esterification with kojic acid, the monoester of kojic acid can be formed, and the diester can also be formed. At present, the most popular kojic acid whitening agent on the market is kojic acid dipalmitate (KAD), which is a diesterified derivative of kojic acid. Research shows that the whitening effect of KAD compounded with glucosamine derivatives will increase exponentially.

Skin care efficacy of kojic dipalmitate
1) Whitening: Kojic acid dipalmitate is more effective than kojic acid in inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase in the skin, thus inhibiting the formation of melanin, which has a good effect on whitening skin and sunscreen.
2) Freckle removal: Kojic acid dipalmitate can improve skin pigmentation, and can fight against age spots, stretch marks, freckles and general pigmentation.

Dipalmitate cosmetic compounding guide
Kojic acid dipalmitate is difficult to add to the formula and easy to form crystal precipitation. In order to solve this problem, it is recommended to add isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate to the oil phase containing kojic dipalmitate, heat the oil phase to 80 ℃, hold for 5 minutes until kojic dipalmitate is completely dissolved, then add the oil phase to the water phase, and emulsify for about 10 minutes. Generally, the pH value of the end product obtained is about 5.0-8.0.
The recommended dosage of kojic dipalmitate in cosmetics is 1-5%; Add 3-5% in whitening products.

Post time: Oct-21-2022